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FWT Chronicles – Georgia Edition #2 – Mestia: Svan Towers, Cows & Opening Ceremony
მესტია: სვანური კოშკები, ძროხები და გახსნის ცერემონია [Mestia: Svanuri koshkebi, dzrokhabi da gakhznis tseremonia
For the second episode of this series exploring the Georgian mountains, we invite you to join us in discovering Mestia. After a long 24-hour journey, which we recounted in our previous episode, a well-deserved rest was in order. Now, we find ourselves in the early morning, deep in the heart of Svaneti.
Waking Up in Mestia
Waking up at 8 AM feels rough due to the time difference. After the 24-hour journey the day before, my body craves rest, but I force it to wake up at what feels like 5 AM in my usual time zone.
Breakfast is close to what one would find in Western Europe, with the addition of local cheese and small pastries, the names of which I couldn't extract from the servers.
Exploring Mestia
With a full stomach, the day can begin. Time to explore Mestia, a picturesque village that has been gaining popularity thanks to the nearby Tetnuldi ski resort. With the recent snowfall, the entire region is covered in a thick white blanket. We intended to take a shuttle to the center, but the engine didn’t seem to appreciate the -11°C temperatures from the previous night. Our driver gets to work on his precious pickup truck while we embark on a hike to town.
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We barely step away from the hotel when we are surprised by a herd of cows that have taken over half of the road. They don’t seem the least bit afraid of us; they simply stare without moving. A few farmers greet us, and we muster our best "Gamarjoba" to make a good impression. We continue on our way, now resembling shepherds, as we gain a personal entourage of stray dogs. Far from being aggressive, they are just looking for attention. It’s important not to drive too fast on the icy village roads—these pups linger everywhere and only move at the last moment.
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Between near-falls on an extremely slippery path, we cross the bridge over the Mulkhra River. Beyond this point, we thought we had reached the town center. Technically, yes, but culturally, surprises keep coming. The first sight: cows attempting to enter supermarkets, drawn by the vegetable displays at the entrance. They are chased away by a few dogs who understand that their presence is not welcome. We wander through the narrow streets, dodging cow dung, hay bales, and ice patches.
The Svan towers remain just as impressive up close. Originally, they were used for food storage. Taking a right turn, we stumble upon a cow pen. This town center keeps delivering unexpected sights. The road is littered with old cars, each buried under at least 25 cm of snow. Good luck digging those out. A few locals greet us warmly, reinforcing the hospitality we've experienced so far.
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Turning into another street, we come across a massive pig. What a surprise! It pays no attention to us, munching on stray bits of hay before continuing its route as if nothing happened. Another animal added to our growing list of encounters.
Speaking of local creatures, special mention goes to the mechanical kind: the cars. They stand out compared to what you’d see in Verbier, but they are just as effective on these snowy mountain roads. Many of them are imports from Japan, which explains the numerous Toyota Land Cruisers, Toyota Hiluxes, Mitsubishi Delicas, and Subaru Foresters we see. It brings back memories of when the FWT used to stop in Hakuba, Japan. Could Geopow be the new Japow?
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A Cozy Break
We make a stop at the café inside the Ushba Hotel, which will serve as the media hub for the event. We order herbal tea made from local plants. While waiting, another cow herd parades past the window. At this point, we are no longer surprised. The sky remains white, but at least the snow has stopped falling.
Our order arrives, accompanied by small blueberry pastries. They are delicious. With our tea, we are offered a green jam made from feijoa, also known as Brazilian guava. Though originally from South America, Georgians manage to cultivate it further down in the valley near Zugdidi, a town we passed through on our way here. (See our first article!)
We are here to try new things, so I take the plunge and flavor my tea. It tastes like passion fruit—absolutely delicious.
Returning to the Hotel
Warmed up, we head back to the hotel. We take the village’s main avenue, which is once again bustling with activity. We pass by the event village, still under construction. Can’t wait to see it completed.
Back at the hotel, it’s time to get back to work. The exploration of Mestia was a true adventure, but one full of memories worth sharing.
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The Opening Ceremony
Tonight marks also the opening ceremony of the 2025 Georgia Pro. Everyone at the hotel is talking about it, it’s the highlight of the weekend!
After wrapping up our last meetings, we decide to skip the shuttle and walk there instead. A great call, especially since the Svan towers, illuminated against the night sky, offer a breathtaking view. Their imposing silhouettes make us feel like we’re stepping into a medieval town. From the valley, we can already hear the echoes of Giz-gizi festival music, urging us to pick up the pace—we don’t want to miss a thing.
But as we cross the bridge separating our hotel from the city center... blackout. The entire town goes dark in an instant. Dogs start barking. We exchange puzzled looks before quickly realizing what happened: the festival’s power demand must have overloaded the system, causing the entire town to short-circuit.
We keep walking, cautiously navigating the icy roads while car headlights sweep past us at full speed. Not the safest trek of our lives, to say the least, but we push on.
Just as we reach Seti Square, our final destination, the power is restored. Perfect timing—now we can fully enjoy the festival atmosphere.
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A Deep Dive into Georgian Culture
The city is alive with the energy of the event. A dense crowd gathers around food stalls and the main stage. Bright lights, upbeat music, and mouthwatering aromas fill the air—it’s impossible not to smile.
Above us, a canopy of colorful banners adds to the festive vibe. We weave through the bustling crowd, warmed by mulled wine and other hot drinks being served at the stands.
In front of the stage, a few amateur dancers start to make their presence known. The excitement is palpable—people are laughing, singing, chatting loudly. Meanwhile, the riders wait patiently on the sidelines, exchanging jokes and grins.
7 PM. Showtime.
Freeride World Tour opening ceremonies tend to follow a familiar script: rider introductions, bib distributions... But tonight, we’re treated to a stunning performance of traditional Georgian dance, complete with elaborate costumes. The crowd is thrilled. The rhythm is infectious, and this is exactly why we’re here—to soak up new cultural experiences.
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After a dazzling light show, a DJ takes over, attempting to set the dance floor on fire. Meanwhile, we chat with some of the riders, swapping stories about our travel adventures to Georgia.
Local Flavors and a Biting Cold
It’s time to sample some local specialties. We pull out our GEL and give in to temptation: regional mulled wine for me, paired with a burger made from local meat, topped with a fragrant herb sauce. Delicious.
The only downside? The temperature keeps dropping. We huddle around the fire pits scattered throughout the square, pressing up against complete strangers. But it only adds to the fun. After all, that’s the magic of the Freeride World Tour: sharing moments, making connections, embracing spontaneity.
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A Slippery Journey Home and Uncontrollable Laughter
After yet another power outage (we’ve lost count by now), we decide to call it a night. Despite our brief oasis of warmth by the fire pits, the cold has won.
Back on the icy, uneven roads, we make our way to the hotel. Two or three falls later—though we’ll blame the mulled wine rather than the ice—we finally make it back. Exhausted, frozen, but absolutely thrilled.
A perfect evening that only deepens my love for Svaneti.
by Victor Le Vély, PR & Media Coordinator